Now we looked at the cropping tool in session three, but I just thought here in session four, I just do a little bit more about the notion of cropping ratios, just so everyone's clear on that. So I'm just going to jump into the cropping tool here because this image could do with a bit of a crop. Notice when I go into the crop my, my radio filter disappears. You don't see the the vignette for the moment. So I'm just going to jump in and I'm going to crop I'm going to firstly just straighten my horizon there just by clicking and dragging down that looks like a reasonable line about there and I'm just going to crop in a little just to eliminate that little motorbike revision mirror down in the bottom corner there. And just about there looks nice, I've got my main action on my nice kind of third line there and I go ahead and click enter and I'm pretty happy with that.
Now what's interesting to notice about the crop that I just did is that I haven't changed the aspect ratio you can see up here, my little padlock remained locked. So my aspect ratio remained the same. Now, so this image was shot on my Nikon D 800, when its aspect ratio is three to two. So three to two is the standard aspect ratio of all of 35 mil frame and pretty much all SLR cameras have that DSLR cameras have that three to two ratio to mimic the 35 mil frame, whether it is a full frame or a cropped sensor, it's generally always in that three to two ratio. Now, just to be clear on ratios, its ratio is all about shape and nothing about size. So the actual size of this image is to be printed or displayed on screen will not be determined until I actually export it.
But prior to exporting, I can crop the shape of the image the ratio. So I've read I've cropped into the image to remove unwanted elements and I've preserved the aspect ratio. Now a couple of other ratios Obviously one to one is going to be a square isn't it. So if I chose the one to one ratio, then my images now square. And if I went ahead and applied that crop, I've just cropped the image into a square shape. So I haven't affected the size of the image yet, that'll be determined on export, I've just affected the shape.
So I'm going to go back because I don't want to do that I want to go back to my two to three, which is my correct camera ratio there and give it a bit more in there and we're getting tighter on h crop maybe about that. Now an interesting case with a non standard ratio other than Of course, the square is the classic 10 by eight. So if you do a TIFF, the clients have at one a 10 by eight printer, somebody wants a 10 by eight print. It's a problematic format 10 by eight because it's not two to three ratio. It's actually a very different ratio. It's four to five, and it's more like the old sort of medium format camera dimensions.
So what's your I choose a 10 by eight. aspect, you'll say it's not a square, but it's not as long a rectangle as my standard 35 millimeters. So if you wanted to export an image as 10 by eight, then it's a good idea to pre crop it to make sure you've seen exactly how the frame lines are gonna lie. So I just hit ENTER again. So you can see it's a, it's a rather unusual sort of shape there that's slightly more square boxy shape. That's the 10 by eight aspect ratio.
So if you wanted to print 10 by eight, it's a very good idea to pre crop the image to ensure that you're not going to lose anything on the edges. So a couple of other classic aspect ratios, the 16 nine is your sort of widescreen format television there. So if we just go on to 69 we've got that nice kind of wide effect. So I guess if you wanted to target something for a television screen, then 16 nine is your classic right Yeah, they're the original television ratio was four to three. So if we go into something a little bit boxy like that, that's what the pre widescreen television ratio used to look like. So a whole bunch of different ratios that choose, I'm always an advocate of maintaining the original ratio of your camera.
In this case, it's two to three. But if you may have reasons to choose a different ratio for the client requirements, or a specific picture frame, you may have for example, the old 10 by eight picture frames is still very common and the bane of many photographers lives when clients order 10 by eight prints because the 35 mil shape doesn't really fit the 10 by eight so well, so it needs to be cropped to cater to that frame. So that's your aspect ratio as distinct from your image size, which will be determined during the export