First, simple sectional that we're going to do will be a stamp goblet. And by simple sectional, what I'm referring to is I'm going to throw both sections and upright position compared to in the sectional section where we'll actually be flipping the cylinders upside down. And what this does, because they're both can be thrown in the upright position as they dry and during the firing process, they're going to be twisting in the same direction. So with a simple sectionals, it does help to illuminate some of the potential stress cracks that can happen along the same. There are still areas that you want to be aware of during the simple sectional that you want to watch out for and we'll address them as we get to it. First, I'm going to throw a small cup to the top of the wine goblet or chalice and then we'll throw us dim and then we'll turn around and we'll put them together.

Go and get started here. And the idea with this Tim here is I'm going to have the bottom completely rounded. I'm not going to flatten it out, and that way when I trim it, I'm going to have a nice rounded bowl to attach my stem to. Who's going to center it up as normal. Open it up and doing with just about it. Not too much.

Nice clean room, that drinking area. soften it up. A little bit of detail work gets a little movement to the piece, that organic flow to which is always so comfortable to use. Okay, so that'll be the top of our wineglass with the Maker's Mark on the inside. I'll set this off to the side. Let it stiffen up, we'll come back and throw our STEM Okay, so this will be the bottom of our goblet here.

And when I open this up, I'm going to open it up all the way down to the floor. Sometimes Potter's like to leave a floor on the bottom of this thrown foot here, which works great too but if you do that make sure you leave an air hole. And one of the problem areas I do see with that is if you just have a small pinhole at the base of the piece, there's a potential that collecting water while it's in the dishwasher, then you had to kind of shake it out. So if you do throw this with the floor in it, make sure you put a big enough hole that the water can easily drain out after you wash it. A little more clay here than I need to cut this down a little bit and keep this stem pretty tight and comfortable to grab a hold of.

Now for this next part one just slightly flare out this top lip and compress it in on the inside. So it has a slightly rounded look to it. The idea here is then that's going to echo the shape of the trimmed cup that's gonna sit on top Okay, now that we've thrown our stim leave it attached to the bat and I will send it off to the side and let it dry and as soon as we can, we'll trim our cup and we'll attach the two. So now that our STEM and our cup have had a chance to set up, I'm going to come back in and trim the base of our cup. And I'm going to trim it completely round so they'll have a nice rounded edge at the end to attach to our STEM instead of this backup. So this is going to be a little bit of a different trimming job than what you would normally do if you're finishing a piece by itself as in like a bowl or just a regular cup, because I'm not going to form the foot.

I'm just looking for a nice clean line all along that rounded bottom. Maybe that's why through the bottom of it rounded there's not that hard edge on the inside. I want to come back and do my fine tuning with my metal rip them in the metal bin in it to the desired shape. Now we can check this against our STEM. So the outside edge of our STEM right here is gonna fall roughly in there and take a quick measurement right about there. And that'll give us a clean area then for our scoring.

And so now this is ready to be attached so we can go ahead and score it on the piece right off the bat. So here I can come in if I wanted a nice clean edge, like that, and that should line up right with our STEM. I actually like to leave a little bit of those trimming lines flow out underneath and just gives hints to the process and it's just a little bit of my style a little bit looser like that. All right. Let me one second to set up and we'll put our goblet together. So now we're ready to put our wine glass on top of our STEM.

You can see I have this slightly flared out top here, and we've measured our cup. Now the real key with doing these simple sectionals, as we see with this demo piece right here is that you do not want both sections to go completely across. So you can see the bowl right here was rounded. But this foot here only comes into about here, it doesn't cross all the way over the base or the floor of that bowl. If that happens as these twists, you're more likely to run into a stress crack right in here. You just want a nice clean connection.

Again, about a quarter inch or a little more right in these areas. We're looking at about a quarter inch right here so it should be good. And with having that little openness right there in the center of that connection, it allows the clay a little more room to move there without running into those cracking issues. I've been score this out a little bit of slip Now we can come in and recenter our cup and we're taking the top of the stem working in into the base of our cup. Sure we have a nice solid connection redefine that same line. And there we go.

Now if we were worried about this same connection right here, we could take this to might be a good idea. Just take this center backup on the wheel. Looks pretty good. can really make sure we got a nice solid connection there. Clean up all these areas, clean up that foot, soften up all these edges and you will have your finished goblet Hello