Okay, so let's get right to it. In this class I'm going to show you how to drape a bodice. And I'll do two variations I will doing two dark bodice and I will also give you a demo on one dark bias. Then I will I will show you how to take all this information from the drape while the cross markings and pencil marks and transfer the information to dotted paper so that you will have a real pattern that you can use to cut real fabric. Okay, before we get started with the draping part, let's get familiar with some of the terminology that we use. While we are draping.

This is the center front. This is the princess seam or princess line. This is the apex The center of the bust is known as the apex right there, shoulder seam, this is your site seam. And as far as the waistline is concerned, when we mark the waistline we use the bottom of the tape the bottom of the tape is what we use as the waistline. Also do a quick recap on green lines. If this is our roll of fabric or Muslim, the edge of the fabric is known as the salvage salvage here and here the green line parallel parallel to the cell which is known as the length grain.

And also we have the cross grain and we have bias 45 degree angle. All right. Okay, so Muslim. We're going to start with a piece of muslin 18 inches across and twist to four inches in length 18 by 24. And the length when I say when I say length, I mean this is the selvedge this the edge of the fabric of the muslin, and we always always want to drape where the edge of the fabric the salvage is parallel to center front. In other words, you want to drape like this not like that.

That's cross grade. There's always the exception to the rule but 99% of the time, the salvage is parallel to center front. All right. Okay, next we start by drawing a grain line one inch away from the edge one inch away from the salvage, we draw a one inch grey line, and then we divide the Muslim in half and draw a cross screen perpendicular to center front. Now, most students well, not most, but some students make the mistake of starting by draping like this, you'd be placed the Muslim like this and then what happens that you have no fabric to complete the section. That's why we have a cross grade, which tells us that this cross grain must come across the bus level, the apex level.

So the cross grain cross the apex center front is pinned onto the center front. And so it looks like this. Replace pins and you want to put the pins at a certain angle. You want to put the pins at this angle, because watch what happens if you do it this way. Guess what this comes undone? See that so you don't want to do that.

You want to put your pin at a certain angle and the angle is lie That in this direction. Okay, so we put pins away across here. Now this is the tricky part here. Be careful how you practice. You don't want to go straight across this way. What you want to do is you go up about an inch or so from the neckline got about an inch and cut a little bit and then go upward like this.

So only this face gets cut off, see that and then slowly you clip the neckline. So that fabric falls nicely onto the bodice and managed to clip a little bit more so that the muslin lays flat on the floor and any excess fabric you can trim away that Okay, so and then we'll put a pin right where the neckline meets the shoulder, we'll put a pin right there. Like that. Okay pin. And basically Now what happens is that all this fabric, this becomes one dark, the waistline dark, and this excess fabric becomes the shoulder dark. So, what you want to do is you want to smooth the muslin until you come to until your fingers you can feel the the princess line the princess seam and you put a little pin and you put all cross mark.

Now I'm using a sharpie but you should use a pencil always use a sharp pencil, put all cross mark right there. And then smooth all this fabric right so Watch this, all this excess fabric nice and smooth. Here's my old cross mark from the princessy. You can take all this fabric here, smooth it up like this, and then follow this under like that. And you can see how we were creating our first Dart our shoulder, and we'll put a little pain right there. And we'll do something similar here.

Now, here is our sights scene. We'll put pins on the side seam. Okay, and now all this excess fabric here will become our dark. How do we do that? Again, we smooth Muslim on the waist line until we come to again, the princess line or the princess ceiling and put a little pin With that is his right there. And we'll put a cross mark and then all this excess fabric will be folded under to create the doubt.

So watch this. I'm going to take this fabric mana for crease it here, smooth and fold it under. Now what happens? Notice there's some tension, there's some pulling here. So we want to eliminate that. So we take our scissors and we slash see all this tension right here.

You want to eliminate that and by slashing to the waistline. See there is the tension. It's gone is nice and smooth and flat. And you might want to do another one right next to it and maybe even the third one like that. Any excess fabric below the waist, you can go ahead and trim it off. Trim it away.

You don't really need that. Okay, here we go. So now we can mark since we're here at the waistline Morrisville Mark using the bottom of the tape the bottom of the tape is the waistline. We're going to mark our waistline, you're going to mark our side seam you can feel it with your fingers you can mark your sights seeing sightseeing and the armhole and we go into mark our neckline and where the neckline needs to shoulder and with the shoulder needs the arm home And also let's mark our apex of cross mark with the apex is right there. So we've marked center front neck line shoulder on hole sightseeing waistline, and you're going to mark with two fabrics meet. Okay, so that basically you end up with these two cross marks.

So, we're going to mark where these two fabrics cross over with a meet, so that if you remove the pins, you will notice you have this markings right here. We can train the extra fabric here. We don't need fabric trim away. And there we have it. Okay, next class I'm going to show you how to take all this information all these cross marks and pencil marks and transfer them to dotted paper and make a nice clean pattern.