Hello, everyone, welcome back. Today we're going to learn the first principle of pattern making, which is Dart manipulation, how to manipulate a dart from one position into another. And there are two techniques that we used to do that. One is called pivot or pivoting, and the other is called slash and spread. So let's get to it. This first exercise is the pivoting or pivot method of dark manipulation.

And we're going to put a little tiny hole in the apex right here because this will be our pivoting point. It is the center of the pattern. As you can see, this pattern is two darts. Well, what if you don't want to darts What if you say, I want to transfer this dark or this amount? This is called the dark intake by the way So we can transfer this amount into this other diet, the waistline diet, and thus eliminating the start altogether. But we're going to do that by using our pivot or pivoting method.

We're going to align center front with one of these dots are numbers like this. And I'm going to start from this notch right here, that knotch closest to the center. I'm going to put a little cross mark just like that so it's very visible. And I'm going to trace my pattern all the way around, neck line down center front, until I arrive to this first notch right here. Okay, so put on crossmark so it's visible using the apex as the pivoting point, I'm going to take the second knotch and move it on top of the first notch, just like that. And then I'm going to trace the other half of the pattern, right shoulder armhole.

The site's seen, down to the waistline until we come to the other notch. Just like that. Make sure that your Apex is visibly marked. Double check. Okay, it's right there. There it is.

If you notice these darts Do not touch the apex. They are about a half inch, sometimes five eighths of an inch or three quarters of an inch away from the apex. And that is because a Dart is never sewn right to the apex. You always want to back away from the apex about a half inch to three quarters of an inch. Okay, this Dart at the waistline is much larger because we've taken the amount from here and incorporated into here. So now we have a much larger Dart, which we're about to true.

Yes, it's a process called truing. TRU e i n g. Chewing is the blending and straightening of pencil lines and cross marks. And that's for the purpose of establishing a correct seam letter. This new Dart now measures four and a half inches. So two and a quarter is half of that. I'm going to just draw a very light pencil guideline like this.

And back away from the apex half inch and now Draw the new legs of the new Dart from this new half inch mark down to my notch. And there is our new Dart. Next, I take one leg, the first leg of the dark. the one closest to center front, I'm going to crease it and fold it over to meet the other leg like so. And using my tracing wheel, I'm going to go over the waistline right through all the layers of the paper of the data paper like so. And when I open it up, it will look like that.

You can see this little tiny holes right there. That the two wheel made. Okay, so using my French curve, I'm going to connect all those little tiny holes left by the tracing wheel. And it's a certain slight shape to it. So now we have a new pattern with one Dart. I have stapled my pattern, my dotted paper pattern to Manila and I'm going to cut it out.

I'm going to use my all or a pushpin to mark the apex and the vanishing point. Make sure you don't hurt yourself. This is sharp. And then you see my not sure I'm going to notch the legs. of the dark, we can do it this way. And I've seen it also used this way where you can see the leg of the dark and match it.

And now we have a new one dark, slower. Okay, so you've learned the pivotal pivoting technique. And now I'm going to show you the slash and spread so stay tuned.