Okay, moving right along. In the last class, we removed the drape from the dress form. And now we're going to transfer to dotted paper. Now, if this was a draping class, I could spend a whole class and show you exactly how to transfer. But because this is pattern making, I want to cut to the chase and give you the overall picture of the steps involved. So what you would do you take your muslin onto a piece of data paper, and you pin your Muslim to the data paper and using your tracing wheel, and you see again, this tracing wheel has little teeth here.

And when you trace, all those little cross marks, all those little pencil marks and two dotted pages Right, and then you remove the muslin drape, you end up with a piece of dirty paper pattern that looks like this. At this point, what you should do next is to pin it back onto the form. Why? Well, we want to make sure that it fits correctly. Number one. And secondly, we want to make sure that what you're what you have in mind as far as the design is concerned that what you had in mind and envisioned is exactly what you have here.

And if there are any changes to be made, and maybe it's too tight, it's too big. Any kind of minor adjustments, now's the time to do it. Okay. Next, we take the dotted paper, you're going to staple the dotted paper to your Manila and Again, you transfer with your tracing wheel, all this information, all the darts, and the apex and so on, on to Manila. Then we remove the data paper and we end up with a pattern that looks like this. This is a Manila pattern.

It's a sloper actually. Okay, let's look at this pattern for a minute. So this pattern has two darts. What is a dart? By definition, the textbook says a dark is a shape in a pattern to control the fit of a garment when it's stitched. These lines right here are called legs.

These are dark legs. The end of the dark the The end point of the dark is called the vanishing point. And in the center of the pattern is the apex, the center of the bust. These little guys right here are notches. And we use our natural to make notches. And it indicates to the seamstress how to sew this dye, meaning that this leg and this leg must come together and be sewn and stitched together to create a Dart.

So I mentioned something called a sloper, also known as a block. What is a sloper? A slopper is a very basic pattern, almost like a template, if you will. It's a basic pattern that we use, and by applying certain principles and techniques, you will be able to draft A specific design that you have in mind, most of you do not have a sloper to use. So you're thinking, well, how am I going to get one? The easiest way to get one is to buy an existing pattern from your local fabric store.

You can look for a pattern that has two darts, a shoulder, Dart, and a waistline. Now, let's look at some of the basic principles of pattern drafting. One principle is called Dart manipulation. How to manipulate darts. A second one is called adding fullness, and a third is called contouring. In the next class, we're going to take the Dart manipulation principle.

I'm going to show you certain techniques so that we can get to work and start manipulating patterns. And you're gonna learn a lot in the next class.