#6 ~ The Yoke

Fashion Design - Pattern Making Pattern Making for Fashion Design
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Creating a Yoke, as a design element. Adding fullness to a Skirt (using the Slash-n-Spread method).

Transcript

Okay, so in today's class, we're going to take this pattern, we just made this a line skirt. And we're going to add a style line and design a yoke. What is a yoke? By definition, the textbook says, a yoke is the upper part of a garment in this case is the upper part of a skirt. And here are some examples. As you can see, there's different sizes, different shapes.

So that's the upper part of the garment. The lower part we're going to use our slash and spread technique to add fullness, which will become shirring or gathers, which will then be sewn to the yoke. Okay, let's do it. Okay, so here's the pattern that we drafted in last class. And by the way, I've stapled it to Manila. So I now have They sloper have a an A line skirt, very simple, very basic.

Okay, I'm going to place my center front on one of these numbers or dots on the data paper. And I'm going to trace my pattern all the way around. Next, I'm going to create my yoke style line. And it's really up to you to decide what size what shape. You can use your French curve to help you draw one or a hip curve. So I'm going to do something like this.

Okay, so there's my yoke line. I'm going to cut this pattern out and cut on the yoke line. So I can separate My yoke from the rest of the skirt. Okay, I'm going to separate my yoke. put this aside for now. And for this section the skirt I'm going to slash and spread this section to add fullness to it.

Next, I'm going to draw some guidelines from the yoke line down to the hemline. Several of them in this case I'm going to do for next I'm going to cut on these guys lines and separate them. So I have slashed and spread my pattern. To add fullness to this portion of the skirt. I have placed a piece of dotted paper underneath my original parent pieces. And I have slashed and spread and added fullness how much fullness is really up to you.

I've added about an inch and a half in between each piece, but it's really up to you how much fullness you want. And so I've added fullness, which is the second principle of pattern drafting, which I mentioned in the second session. Now using our hip curb or French curve, we're going to blend our yoke line and the same thing with the hemline. So we have a nice smooth yoke line and hand line. Next I'm going to cut out the pattern Notice that the lower part of the skirt is much bigger because we've added fullness and all this will be gathered to be sewn into the yoke like that. Now remember, this patent has no seam allowance, because it was drafted from a sloper that did not have similar rules.

So if you were to sew this in fabric, you must add seam allowance or it'll never work. So don't forget that. Okay, now the next class we're going to work with princess seams and Princess style lines. So we'll take our basic bodice right here and turn it into a princess style. Okay, see you next class.

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