So now, a really important thing is in Lightroom to make local adjustments. So for example, we have the adjustment brush at the top here, if we click it, you'll see that our mouse is now like a brush, a new section flips here. And we have the same settings as we have in the basic section of Lightroom. So we can, for example, adjust exposure contrast highlights, just to a specific part of the image. For example, let's say we want to light up the boat a bit here in the left hand side, you can boost the exposure of it. And then just go with our brush and brush over the boat.
Let's make boosted a bit more and you see brush boat gets brighter and only the boats so it can adjust only the boat here. Yeah, only the things we brushed in. For example, if you think you need a bit more reflection, just brush over it, make a little reflection here in the water, no problem at all. But of course, make sure that it doesn't look weird and unnatural. If you're pressing the Alt key and holding your key, you have the eraser. And you can just erase a bit of the things we just brushed in.
So, if you scroll down a bit here is the settings for the brush the size, the feathering, I always choose feathering. 100 feather 100 flow and density around 75 ad is fine. And yeah, that's the thing with the brush, we can also turn the brush strokes on and off that we see what we change with these local adjustments of the adjustment flash. Okay, you can also say that we want a bit more yellow, the Boats just a bit. boost the shadows in the boat a bit. Bring it down a bit.
Think it's too much you can also Yeah, erase something. Okay, maybe like this. Yeah, until we think it is fine. Then we click Done. And we're done. Okay, so with the adjustment brush, you can also make a new brush, click here on the brush again, click New.
Here's our first brush stroke strokes. Basically here, we kind of did them again and click New we can make a new brush and for example, brighten the fortress a bit. Yeah. Okay. Fine, MTech done. Okay, adjustment brush, very important.
Then we have the Radial Filter. Radial Filter is also very important. For example, if we want to take a little sunset here and make it a bit more than me We can just make a Radial Filter here. Scroll down a bit and make sure your feather is at 100 because otherwise it does look very unnatural and you will see these radial filters then in the final image and we doesn't want that we want to make things natural or look natural. So feather 100 is very important, can invert the mask if you invert, don't invert the mask, everything which is located outside of the radial soldier will be affected. here if you invert the mask, everything in the inside will be affected with our adjustments.
For example, we can make it a bit more orange here. A bit saturation. Maybe here we can add a bit clarity just a bit to boost the clouds a bit. Not too much clarity, okay. And make it a bit brighter, just like this. So I think You see you're getting the test these local adjustments only affect parts of the image which we choose to be affected.
And very important. You can also make more radio for just in one of course, the same as with the brush. Okay, the next and the third important local adjustment tool is the graduated filter. It is for example, like if you have a graduated and the filter and landscape photography, you try to darken up the sky. You can also do this in post production. Of course, your sky must be full with details and it's blown out it or burn out.
It's too late, of course, but then we cannot recover things. But otherwise, if everything's exposed, exploded, right. Then we have no problem can for example, neck, the sky but duck If we think we can just make it a bit dark on the right hand side, no problem, a gradient. Boom. Wonderful. So now this is affected if we again turn it off and on, you see how things change the image.
And yeah, I kind of like this. Maybe a bit darker here. Okay. Wonderful. Wonderful. Yeah, I'm here can remove red eyes.
And here you can. It's like a Spot Removal Tool like in Photoshop, but I would recommend you to do these things in Photoshop. So if you have dust on your lens, remove the spots and Photoshop smile wise because it doesn't. It isn't it is not so good in Lightroom, so it doesn't work really well in Lightroom. So I'd recommend you to use this in Photoshop. Yeah, these were the local adjustments here on the top.
And now, at the end, of course, we have to sharpen the image. for sharpening, I keep the standard settings that Lightroom has in the beginning. So I leave all these things here, not 25 and so on and so on. But noise reduction as I open up the shadows to 100%. There's a bit of noise if you zoom in. So I do kind of noise reduction, maybe luminance 10 you know that just a bit of the noise is reduced.
And then maybe color noise reduction of course as well because this doesn't affect the sharpness of the photo I recognize, and the sharpening for the final image. I do the final sharpening then in Photoshop with with different filters, but I will show you this later in the upcoming lessons as well. So, yeah ledger might keep the shopping attached to a bit of noise reduction and the rest I will do in Photoshop. So the next important part is lens corrections. This is enabled when you open an image so if I turn it off you see what happens here the kit lens of the Sony A 6000 has a bit distortion and vignetting you can see this and Lightroom has the many profiles imported already and you can just enable the profile correction but this should be enabled automatically so you don't have to do anything also make sure that remove chromatic aberration is on because there always be a little bit as always liberal of chromatic aberration, every image so depending on how good your lens is, of course, but I I make it on, turn it on every editing, so no problem here, the Form section in Lightroom is also very important.
And it usually works very well. If you just pick auto it auto transforms the image that it is very straight that the horizons level up correctly in this image. I tried it often in this image, but it doesn't work with this image, maybe because there is not really visible and horizon and it's very difficult for Lightroom to find out here the correct the correct position, the correct level. But as you level it up already with the crop tool, we don't need this now. But in the other editing, we just need the abroad function but mostly on the time or only the auto function here. So we can skip this effects also important and we can make a post crop vignetting For example, to make the to close the image to make it more dynamic to really catch the get the viewer into the image and I cleanups.
So here we can change the midpoint see what happens the roundness of the vignette the feathering so okay and also own yeah we can add grain but I think this makes no sense we I want to reduce noise and not to add noise so if you needed here another point grain you can add some grain also important here d haze many people overdo it with this function so they just go like boom now you see these pictures often in social media don't you with too much contrast too much clarity and just overdone and I think this now I don't like this I like a natural image look and yeah. So don't overdo it with D haze it adds more contrast. It adds more color of course, but We already did this with the adjustments on the top so I think I don't often use this D haze function.
And in the last section of Lightroom he has the camera calibration we can change the way Lightroom is interpreting our raw files. I always keep Adobe standard we can also choose a camera landscape it takes some time but then you see how it is interpreted differently completely differently and it looks completely different here. Yeah, but mostly I go with a double standard. So this is too saturated for me I would have to, to to now and decrease the saturation again, but I go with the newest one that works fine. And you can also hear for example, and again, choose the red tones that they're more more orange, more red, so saturation of red tones to get a Specific image look but I don't often use this camera calibration section. Okay, and so these were the basics, the basics of the basics.
So the most important functions of Lightroom also the adjustments, local adjustments I've showed you, and with this knowledge we can work on our next images.